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Thread: Poor man's Mugen Air box/Comptech Ice box

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  1. #1

    Poor man's Mugen Air box/Comptech Ice box

    I have some time today after the Horn and Shifter Cable bushings, so I started this cheap mod poor man's version. Just wanted to see if there was a difference from the Fijuta SRI.
    Throttle respond is way better than Fujita SRI, but power out is unknown cuz I have no access to a dyno. Would someone please try this and dyno it.
    cut the veins out of the stock box with wire cutters and the sensor guides to the TB hose:



    Sand the left overs with dremel and a sanding drum, high speed will melt the plastic off and the lowest will kinda sand, but I couldn't wait (high speed was set lol):




    Now the labor part, hand sanding:

    Last edited by bioevolve; 05-28-2007 at 02:54 PM.

  2. #2

    Sanded some more 100,400,600,800,1000 , I'm tired of sanding, others should have more patients and do a better job. I added a KI75 Tornado to it (I know some say they don't work, but I have used it a on 2005 Toyota Sienna with a K&N filter (stock 321 miles to a tank, with K&N and Tornado 343 miles to a tank) Those numbers are an average of 5 tank fulls each.)
    I am using the stock filter until the K&N filter comes in.




    Drilled the drain to 1/4" for faster drain of water and drilled two 1/4" holes (as air by-pass feeds if gotten submerged, they are right next to the filter sides):


    Last edited by bioevolve; 05-28-2007 at 03:21 PM.

  3. #3

    Ok, now the bottom part.
    Remove the resonator, cut the pipe leading to the resonator box then sand:




    Put some silicone at the connection because there is nothing else holding that very bottom peice except the upper parts of that piping.

    Remove this bracket and/or the battery tray, it will make it alot easier to install it.

    Bottom part finished, now back to the top:


  4. #4

    Connect lower part to upper part:

    Put the Valve cover pipe back on, with the TB by-pass mod still in place, sensor installed, all screws & crap and you're finished:


    Beats a $400-$800 name brand air box lol.
    Cost (if you already have the tools) $8 for sand papers, $45 K&N filter, $50 Tornado KI75, $0 Silicone (already had it). Total $103 or $53 without the Tornado KI75, your choice, but still way cheaper!
    Last edited by bioevolve; 05-28-2007 at 05:04 PM.

  5. #5

    Just test drove it after disconnecting the battery to reset the ecu.
    Throttle respose is way better than SRI (like was said up top), Vtech change over isn't as noticeable than with the SRI (probably cuz I'm not hearing it), I can hear the exhaust now lol, quiet like stock except a light hiss of air sucking in and probably a whisle from the drain & the two other by-pass holes. I can hear my valves hahaha.
    When K&N filter comes in, I will post it.

    Maybe fiberglassing the inside of the air box and making it a bowl like shape would be better like Mugen's original. I think this version points to the front of the car, still inside the engine bay.
    Last edited by bioevolve; 05-28-2007 at 04:56 PM.

  6. #6
    K-Series.com Member rudysSI's Avatar
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    hmmm..i'd like to see this dyno'd. I've seen similar things done on other cars with minimal results, however i've never seen it done on a honda.

  7. #7

    Quote Originally Posted by rudysSI View Post
    hmmm..i'd like to see this dyno'd. I've seen similar things done on other cars with minimal results, however i've never seen it done on a honda.
    That's what I'm thinking lol.

  8. #8
    K-Series.com Member rsxmachine's Avatar
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    I would lose the Tornado thing if you're going for performance, the only way I see it working is that it acts as a flow restrictor so as your engine gets a little less air it uses correspondingly less fuel as the ECU leans it out to remain stoich...

    otherwise interesting DIY. my Element has a sizable resonator chamber off to the side of the main airbox, I've wondered what would happen if I removed it and put a cold-air nozzle there leading into the fender.
    2002 RSX Type-S < SOLD
    2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 Hemi
    2004 Element EX 4WD 5-Spd
    2005 Cadillac STS N* V8

  9. #9

    Quote Originally Posted by rsxmachine View Post
    I would lose the Tornado thing if you're going for performance, the only way I see it working is that it acts as a flow restrictor so as your engine gets a little less air it uses correspondingly less fuel as the ECU leans it out to remain stoich...

    otherwise interesting DIY. my Element has a sizable resonator chamber off to the side of the main airbox, I've wondered what would happen if I removed it and put a cold-air nozzle there leading into the fender.
    You're right about preformance, but gas prices are getting high. I daily drive about 100 miles to work and back, so I will leave that in there. If I ever goto to the track or find a dyno I will take it out.

    Try it on the Element and let us know. My wife has an Odyssey and I put a K&N filter in it, was thinking about modding the box and adding a Tornado to it cuz she drives more than me.
    Last edited by bioevolve; 05-30-2007 at 03:29 PM.

  10. #10

    K&N filter came in 33-2343.
    Sanded some more with these flap sanders (what ever you call them), they work pretty good *use on low speed*. I still couldn't get to tighter spaces, hand sanded again 400,800,1000 grits. Alot smoother now than before.





    Throttle response was lost, back to when I had the SRI in. Guessing cuz of the K&N. Before with the SRI I couldn't hear my exhaust, now I can't hear my modbox intake lol. Reset ECU again.

    Here is vid clip. Recorded to DV to MPEG2 cut/edited to MPEG1 converted to WMV, went from 87MB to about 17MB lol.
    http://www.freedomcomputers.net/civi...box/modbox.wmv


    Forgot to mention, if you do this:
    Wash out the box, to remove any debris.
    Inspect the box (especially the top part) for any loose peices hanging on, remove them also.
    Last edited by bioevolve; 06-02-2007 at 04:29 PM.

  11. #11

    I don't remember what stock sounded but here is what it sounds like in action. About 9MB.
    http://www.freedomcomputers.net/civi...dbox/aride.wmv

  12. #12

    Fujita SRI is on ebay now.

    It sold fast lol. Well I guess for $75 with free shipping it will hahaha.
    Last edited by bioevolve; 06-13-2007 at 09:22 PM.

  13. #13
    K-Series.com Member rudysSI's Avatar
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    Let's see a dyno!

  14. #14

    Grrrrr... no Dyno Shops locally open on weekends nor holidays near where I live nor where I work Grrrrr.
    Going to the track tomorrow, Test & Tune 6pm-11pm, 45 minutes away. Hopefully will get some times in, will post it.
    Last edited by bioevolve; 06-16-2007 at 12:13 AM.

  15. #15

    Well I can't get a break lol.
    Time slips suck: (well I suck)

    1. 40 PSI tires, launch 5500rpm, REAL BAD wheel hopping spinning (*NOT IN VIDS forgot to turn on cam)
    2. 40 PSI tires, launch 4500 rpm, BAD wheel hopping spinning
    3. 30 PSI tires, launch 3500 rpm, wheel hopping spinning
    4. 30 PSI tires, launch 3000 rpm, wheel hopping spinning
    5. 30 PSI tires, launch 3000 rpm, wheel hopping spinning

    Vids of it below 34'ish megs:
    http://www.freedomcomputers.net/civi.../dragstrip.wmv

    Stock suspension, Summer tires w/ 50 psi max.
    On the modbox so far 3 tanks fulls have been averaging 324 miles to a tank. That is a gain of 37 miles to a tank over the SRI. Both readings were from 90% highway and 10% city with agressive driving about half the time on both highway and city. Oh that is with the AC on all the time on both.

    camera mount used:


    Oh forgot, in the third race in the video. I was lined up with a CRX with N20 (he purged on the line twice), don't know what the motor was in it, but beat him lol.
    Last edited by bioevolve; 06-16-2007 at 10:51 PM.

  16. #16

    Holly wheel-hop!

  17. #17

    Is that a TransAM or Firebird in the first race of that video that beat me? If it is it ran 14.29 @ 93.42mph, don't they come with v8's?!?!? 4th gen I think.

  18. #18
    K-Series.com Member rsxmachine's Avatar
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    you should try 20-25 psi in the front tires next time, with practice you can cut 2.1-2.2 60-fts on street tires
    2002 RSX Type-S < SOLD
    2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 Hemi
    2004 Element EX 4WD 5-Spd
    2005 Cadillac STS N* V8

  19. #19

    Quote Originally Posted by rsxmachine View Post
    you should try 20-25 psi in the front tires next time, with practice you can cut 2.1-2.2 60-fts on street tires
    I will do that next time lol.

  20. #20

    Finally! someone dyno'ed it! 4WPH and 4WTQ gain! WooHoo!

    Ep3racer954 has dyno'ed it link below:
    http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45330

  21. #21

    I just remembered, I had the VSA on while at the strip. Doesn't that make a difference?

  22. #22

    You should learn to feather the clutch or get some DR's, stiffer suspention, ESMM, TQ dampner should help with wheel hop
    277.7hp@8300, 201.1ft.tq@6165, 91 oct, 6psi
    I-Vtec do you?
    Import Illusions - We Sick With It!
    35mpg Freeway!!!!

  23. #23
    K-Series.com Member rudysSI's Avatar
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    Well, that's cool it made some numbers. Definitely cheaper, and i doubt there are any intakes that make much more power than that.

  24. #24

    Got the ingalls to install after grinding it down for the NST pulleys. Have some new rubber for the 16" wheels coming.


    I was really surprised it made that much power lol.

  25. #25
    K-Series.com Member rudysSI's Avatar
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    I think i'm going to do this to my stock EP box for the K20 going in my EG. Was the dyno with or without a k&n?

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