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  • RRC intake manifold and 70mm Hybrid Racing throttle body install and dyno test!

    RRC intake manifold and 70mm Hybrid Racing throttle body install and dyno test!

    The vehicle was taken to J. Mills at A.S.A.P Tuning in Raleigh to have the car dynoed to give us a baseline. I was warned that their dyno reads low and to be prepared for the variation. Dynos all read differently and a baseline pull is needed to see if the product gains or loses horsepower. Even if you use the same dyno there are other factors that affect horsepower readings, so baselines are important for every product comparison. Keeping the car on the dyno and doing pulls on the same day helps show consistent numbers as well as having a good tuner who works to keep engine coolant and air temps consistent throughout the session.

    Before installing the RRC I needed to cut a half inch wide groove in the bottom of the face of the intake manifold to allow air to reach the IACV. This was done with a Dremel tool and using the Hybrid supplied gasket for the outline. I also needed to port match the RRC to 70mm to match the Hybrid throttle body. This can be done with the Dremel or a metal cutting bit on a drill. Again, use the gasket to get your outline and grind over a little bit to ensure nothing impedes flow into the manifold. The Hybrid throttle body has provisions for using cruise control but I had long deleted it so I just removed the two screws holding the cruise control bracket in place. I bolted the throttle body to the manifold with the gaskets to make sure that it all lined up well. The big advantage of this throttle body is that is allows you to mate it to the PRB/PRC and RBC/RRC manifolds without needing an extra adapter.

    The baseline was 206 whp and 148 ft lbs torque on this dyno. This was 24 horses lower than my previous dyno run in Richmond at Adrenaline Auto.

    Saying good bye.

    There is no comparison here. The Hybrid Racing throttle body is a monster.

    The RRC is straighter, wider, and has longer runners. Everything you need to make more top end power!

    The RRC is very attractive as well. I ground off all the extra bits along the runners to clean up the manifold a bit. I then sprayed it with cast coat engine paint until I decide on a more permanent finish. I had thermal barrier coated my PRC and it did a great job, along with the Hondata thermal gasket, at keeping the manifold cool to the touch. Cool air is great for more power.

    Everything bolted up fine. I am running a DC Sports CAI and the only thing needed was a larger coupler for the throttle body.

    The K Tuned brake booster line is in an awkward position and it hits the hood slightly. It needs to be tweaked down or around but I haven't figured that out yet.

    The RRC has just enough room to allow me to keep my hood prop holder. This is far better than just letting it dangle in the engine bay, especially if you hate rattles like I do.

    Air temps were stupid high on the day I booked the dyno but what can you do.

    So the dyno showed increases everywhere along the graph. There was a big gain after the vtec changover and then it was bottle necked a bit before steadily climbing. While the top end gain was only six whp and five ft lbs torque there were bigger gains throughout the power band. The exhaust is holding back the engine at this point.

    I bent the b pipe down during an off track incident at Summit Point my first track day. I am also running a Mugen twin loop which has a high flow catalytic converter and the quietest exhaust note I have ever heard. I have had loud exhausts but am willing to sacrifice a few horsepower for sanity on long trips. I will look into replacing the bent section and also making a test pipe for track days to see how much improvement I can find.

    The only hiccup I had was after picking the car up the car was bucking a bit and the engine was not matching my throttle inputs. I went to K20A.org and ClubRSX to look for answers and read about scaling the TPS, the symptoms of a bad TPS, and the issues related to the IAC valve going bad or getting sticky. The tuner advised me to turn back on the IACV. I did that but it didn't help. I tightened up the throttle cable and then I rescaled the TPS and everything was flawless.

    The choice of the RRC versus the RBC was done with a lot of research but with so many conflicting dyno comparisons the results can go either way. I wanted to do a full comparison as well but funding fell through and I just wanted to get the build going. The RRC was available used and at a great price so I jumped on it. The RBC is cheaper and the gains are fairly equal between the two if you average all the dyno comparisons available. You really can't go wrong with OEM build quality that is cheaper than aftermarket and offers good gains on most builds. I am on DC5R cams and the S2000 valve springs and I even noticed gains. More aggressive cams could take better advantage of the free breathing manifold.

    The car pulls harder and the sound is meaner. It just feels great. The throttle body is so smooth you don't even realize it is on the car and that is a great compliment as a bad throttle body can ruin the driveability of a car quickly. I highly recommend the Hybrid Racing throttle body and the RRC intake manifold.


    I want to thank:
    Hybrid Racing for the great product.
    J. Mills and A.S.A.P Tuning for the install, tuning, post tuning troubleshooting, and for the pics of the installation.
    K20A.org and ClubRSX.com for providing help with troubleshooting and sourcing used parts.
    Comments 4 Comments
    1. Shelbygt500's Avatar
      Hi,just wanted to know what induction kit you got on there??
    1. caeavesrsx-s's Avatar
      DC Sports CAI
    1. caeavesrsx-s's Avatar
      Best place to buy the RRC.

    1. ukinayo_dc5's Avatar
      Just a heads up, you dont have to create a little passage way on the face of the TB area to make the IACV work you can just cut out a piece of the white TB thermal gasket HR provided and it will be enough for the IACV to work properly.
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